Rock Climbing Area Overview
Buckskin Gulch is a compact and user-friendly sport climbing area near Page, Arizona with over fifty routes on Kaibab Limestone. While the crag has a very short and convenient approach, it is located far from any major city, making it a remote destination and the only developed sport climbing area for a long distance in any direction. The climbing features distinctive fossil-rich holds, mostly moderate grades, and a quiet, uncrowded setting close to some of the most iconic hikes in the American Southwest. Many routes also allow for straightforward top-rope setups, making the area well suited for top-rope climbing and TRS sessions. Route descriptions and ongoing updates for Buckskin Gulch are maintained by the climbing community on Mountain Project.
Directions to the Crag
This area is located on House Rock Valley Road BLM – 1065 and can be accessed via Highway 89 Kanab/Page on its north and highway 89A going to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon/Jacob’s Lake on its south end. The road is normally fine for all vehicles unless it is wet. Even the burliest of 4×4 rigs will have issues if the red shale is muddy…. Even the ones with truck nuts.
For access from the north end:
Turn onto House Rock valley from Hwy 89 at about mile post 25 on a huge sweeping curve at the top of a steep grade through a large cut in the cliff, there will be a green sign marking the road from both directions. Drive a little over 4 miles on an improved road (2wd safe) until you come to a cattle guard. Immediately turn right on a small sticker two track road. The road ends at the gulch after 150 yards. Hike up the trail for a ¼ mile to the crag.
For access from the South end:
Turn on to House Rock Valley Rd off of 89A onto House Rock Valley Rd. Drive approximately 25 miles on a beautifully scenic dirt road. Drive past Wire Pass trailhead parking lot and State Line Campground. The turn off to the climbing area will be about a ¼ mile from the Buckskin Trailhead and you will be able to see the cliffs from there.
Buckskin Gulch Rock Climbing Description
Easy access, two star sport climbing, on Kaibab Limestone, in one of the most scenic places on Earth. The Gulch is surrounded by national parks; Zion, Bryce, Lake Powell and the Grand Canyon are only an hour or so away. The Paria Canyon, the Wave, White Pockets and Coyote Buttes are practically within yelling distance. The climbing here is mostly on vertical rock with the occasional bulbous overhang, lending itself to moderate routes that are typically very edgy, and require balance over strength. The rock is extremely fossiliferous and is uniquely decorated with really cool round chert nodules, some as big as softballs. The nodules are adorned with fossilized organisms like sea fans, brachiopods and crinoids and produce fantastic holds that make it seem like you are climbing a coral reef. This area is very top rope friendly and a fantastic place to Top Rope Solo. Many of the routes are equipped with chains that overhang the top and can be accessed without roping up or using a handy back up bolt so that you can set up the anchor. Be prepared for stiff, old school grades. The knock on the area is that the rock can be sharp in spots, especially in the black colored sections and can be hollow in the yellow. At Priest Draw they call the cute little warts on the limestone Croslies, here at the Gulch we call the sharp little bastard thingies, Chizzlies. Although there has been activity out here since the early 90’s and many of the routes have been cleaned fairly well, there are still a few hidden choss gems to be discovered. For the climber used to polished, chalked up routes from areas that host the hordes, this place will seem a bit sketchy but for those that can handle a bit of “salt in their soup” it is all part of a savory desert cuisine. The Gulch isn’t exactly what you would call a destination crag but it is however, a crag at a destination. Get your Buckskin Gulch Rock Climbing Guide.
THE BUCKSKIN GULCH ROCK CLIMBING GUIDEBOOK
