Kaiparowits Plateau ~ Grand Staircase
Trip Overview
Smokey Mountain is accessed by a dirt road that climbs a series of switchbacks to the top of the Kaiparowits Plateau within Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument. It provides stellar views of Lake Powell and the Page, Arizona region. At the top of the plateau the Burning Hills area can be found, where an underground coal seam has been burning beneath the surface for decades, giving Smokey Mountain its name and making it one of the more unusual geologic destinations on the plateau.
Type of Road: Maintained 4×4 only
Length: Approximately 88 Miles Round Trip from Big Water
Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: Shale (quickly turns to mud), Rocky Sections, Switchbacks with steep drop-offs
Destination: Scenic Overlooks & An underground coal fire
Elevation Gain: 1590 feet from Big Water
Directions to the Road
Turn off of Highway 89 in Big Water onto Ethen Allen Street and drive for 0.3 miles. Then turn right at the sign in between two large yellow warehouse buildings that says Glen Canyon National Recreation Area – Highway 12 —- ( Hwy 12 is also known as County Road NP 230). A mile after the turn the road will become an improved gravel road suitable for all vehicles and you will come to Wahweap Creek crossing, under normal conditions the crossing is fine for any type of vehicle but beware during times of rain. Drive down NP 230 for 13 miles and take a right at the at the fork staying on Smokey Mountain Road (NP 230) there will be a sign pointing the way. Drive one more mile and bear left onto BLM 330 and stay on this road until you get to the top of Kelly Grade.
~ Coal Fires: continue past the Overlook for 1.5 miles and take a right onto Coal Fires Road #8010 and go for approximately 0.6 miles before you take another right. The coal fissures will be about 100 yards down this last dirt road and be situated on the edge of the canyon rim.
Smokey Mountain Drive Description
Smokey Mountain Road is a steep, winding route that ascends the Smoky Mountain via Kelly Grade, offering an exhilarating off-road experience with breathtaking views. As you climb, you’ll reach the Smokey Mountain Overlook, where panoramas reveal the vast, colorful layers of the Grand Staircase, Lake Powell, Page Arizona, and the seemingly endless horizon. On a clear day, the San Francisco Peaks, 130 miles away, are visible in the distance. Nearby, the coal fires—underground seams of coal ignited by a lightning strike within a fissure in the rock—add an eerie touch to the landscape, with wisps of smoke occasionally rising from the earth, especially visible during the colder winter months. This remote area is a paradise for those seeking solitude, adventure, and an up-close look at some of the region’s most intriguing natural phenomena. While much of the road is passable for 2WD vehicles, the rocky lower portion of Kelly Grade requires a 4×4. The road is highly susceptible to flooding and quickly turns to sticky mud when wet, making it impassable even for ATVs, so it’s crucial to check conditions before setting out. If you’re planning a day trip, be sure to allow plenty of time—the nearly 88-mile round trip can take longer than expected for those unprepared.